Mumbai: Come and fall in love with design once again this Valentine’s Day! The Wearable Artworks & Crafts Design Festival will be celebrated at the gem & jewellery export promotion council’s Artisan Design Jewellery Awards 2024 on 12-13 February, at the Ice Factory, Ballard estate in Mumbai. Among many design themes, ‘Jewellery as Art’ will take centre-stage at the two day event held on the eve of Valentine’s Day to celebrate people’s love and passion for art, design and jewellery. The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) is the apex body of trade in India, supported by the ministry of commerce & industry.
The final judging round for the seven editions of The Artisan Awards 2024, powered by GIA, was held on 22 January, 2024. Of the twenty captivating and well-finished jewellery pieces, the jury picked out six winners from the two unconventional themes of The Artisan Awards 2024: ‘Unusual Materials’ and ‘Objet Trouvé.’ This edition of The Artisan Awards received more than 600 entries from around the world including India, Canada, USA, Bahrain, Egypt, Dubai, and Pakistan.
The largest-ever congregation of luminaries and aesthetes from the world of Arts, crafts & design; curators, art gallery owners and patrons; art school teachers, deans and students; socialites, celebrities, connoisseurs, architects, painters and sculptors; along with jewellery designers (experienced and young) will grace GJEPC’s Artisan Jewellery Awards 2024 gallery showcase at Ice Factory. The discussions will revolve around two exciting and unconventional themes ‘Unusual Materials’ and ‘Objet Trouvé’ of the seven editions of GJEPC’s The Artisan Jewellery Awards 2024.
The first theme, ‘Objet Trouvé’ (found objects) explores art crafted from visible yet frequently altered objects that are atypical yet serve as art materials due to their non-art function.
A ‘found object’, whether it's natural, man-made, or even just a fragment, is preserved due to an inherent connection by the artist. It can be treated as a work of art in itself, and as a muse for inspiration.
The idea was to design a piece of jewellery that depicts the essence of ‘Objet Trouvé’ by taking an object of your past and reimagining it in a modern form. Examples of 'found objects' could include vintage poker chips, antique coins, collected shells, vintage Venetian glass beads, buttons, and beachcombed shells.
The second theme, ‘Unusual Materials’ encouraged designers to create a dialogue between the familiar and the unexpected by combining contrasting materials with at least 50 per cent precious materials. Unusual materials could include cement, titanium, wood, porcelain, bamboo, slate, meteorite, glass, recycled plastic, leather and more.
GJEPC chairman Vipul Shah, stated, “GJEPC’s vision extends beyond the conventional, aiming to redefine the landscape of jewellery design. Through the Artisan Jewellery Design Awards competition, India seeks to elevate itself and position as the global premier design hub, aligning with the government’s campaign of design in India. Through this design competition, GJEPC reaffirms its commitment to encourage an environment that will nurture the creative spark within designers.”
GJEPC convener, promotion & marketing, Milan Chokshi adds, “Each year, we strive to introduce a distinctive theme, challenging participants by collaborating with curators to elevate their engagement. Over the past seven years, the Artisan Awards have assumed increasing significance globally, with India recognising them as the most coveted accolade. This prestigious award serves as a driving force, inspiring designers, budding students, and manufacturers to create thematic jewels at the highest echelon. The quality of production within this thematic framework is truly remarkable.”
The esteemed jury comprised Alice Cicolini, renowned UK jewellery designer; Biren Vaidya, managing director, The Rose Group; Payal Singhal, fashion designer; Apoorva Deshingkar, GIA India - senior director of education and market development; and Toktam Shekarriz, Dubai-based jewellery designer.
The technical jury comprised of Devinder Layal (Jewellery Artiste and educationist), Meenal Choksi (head of design, Moksh Fine Unseen Jewellery); Sushama Kalzunkar Sawant (PD & merchandising head, Dia Gold Creations); Janki Choksi (founder, Janki Choksi Designs); Gunjan Sapra (COO & head of department, jewellery designs, International Institute of Gemology, and a GIA instructor) to honour the best and most talented jewellery designers.
Alice Cicolini said, “As a jewellery designer, the prospect of an award process like this is truly invigorating. I find great excitement in witnessing competitions that encourage designs using more unconventional materials and explore global trends. The freedom afforded to India's young designers through these themes is commendable and inspiring. Personally, there are a couple of pieces from today that stand out to me as not only intriguing designs but also impeccably crafted.
“Having worked in India for nearly two decades, I can attest that it stands as one of the most extraordinary nations for jewellery production, boasting incredible craftsmanship. Witnessing the remarkable work emerging from this country is always a source of excitement. Moreover, it is refreshing to see young jewellery designers break free from traditional constraints, allowing their imaginations to take flight—an approach actively encouraged by institutions like this one. Design, being a commercial art form, requires assurance that there is a market for innovative work.”
Payal Singhal was fascinated by the exploration of innovative materials and the creation of pieces that could endure for generations. Reflecting on India's design and manufacturing talent, Singhal noted, “The Artisan Awards showcase a remarkable standard. The ability to work with challenging materials and produce versatile, aesthetically pleasing, and finely crafted jewellery is a testament to the high level of expertise present in our country. The innovation displayed at the awards reinforces my belief that India possesses superior capabilities in terms of design, quality, and finishing.
“As for elevating jewellery into wearable art, initiatives like The Artisan Awards play a crucial role. By encouraging designers to view jewellery as an artistic expression rather than just ceremonial or status symbols, we encourage a shift towards wearable art. Supporting and motivating young designers and jewellery brands to embrace this perspective will contribute to the evolution of jewellery as a form of artistic expression rather than merely a complement to attire or a symbol of status.”
